ProSpec® Burnished Block Sealer WB


ProSpec® Burnished Block Sealer WB is used as a final sealer on masonry block walls including burnish block or groundface block, architectural block, brick, slate, paving stone, terrazzo, quarry tile, and cementitious materials. Burnished Block Sealer WB enhances the beauty, giving the surface a rich “wet-look” sheen. It forms a breathable membrane to increase protection from damaging freeze-thaw cycles, deicing salts, efflorescence, and chemical erosion, protects surfaces from most chemicals, dirt, acids, alkali, oil, grease, foods, and airborne pollutants while making these surfaces easier to clean. Made with a durable polysiloxane that does not yellow when exposed to the sun's UV rays. Available in 1 gal. bottle (BOM#121110), 5 gal. pail (BOM#121107), and 55 gal. drum (BOM#121113).

PRINTABLE INFO     

UNIT
SIZE
UNIT
WEIGHT
PACK
QUANITY
PACK
WEIGHT
PACK
1 gal. bottle 10 lb. 4 40 lb. Case
5 gal. pail 45 lb. 36 1620 lb. Pallet
55 gal. drum 550 lb. 4 2200 lb. Pallet

**Product production varies by plant. Please contact your salesperson for product availability in your location**

Printable Info

Frequently Asked Questions

What surfaces should you put sealer on?

You should use sealer on exterior concrete (interior garage areas) in regions subject to freeze-thaw cycles.  Concrete can also be sealed for specific purposes such as stain repellence, dust reduction, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, or to maintain an attractive appearance.

How long do sealers last?

This depends on the type of sealer that you use.  Because penetrating sealers penetrate the surface, they last longer and generally only wear away if the substrate wears. In this scenario, penetrating sealers may last up to 10 years. On the contrary, acrylic membrane sealers offer the shortest performance life of only
1-3 years.  But a sealer’s performance long-term is ultimately based on traffic wear as well as environmental exposure.

When should I apply a sealer to concrete or pavers?

Most acrylic membrane sealers can be applied as soon as the new concrete has been placed and can withstand the weight of the installer. Although, other penetrating sealers should only be applied after the concrete has fully cured for 28 days. All sealers can be applied or reapplied after the concrete is 28 days old. Generally, sealers should be applied when air and substrate temperatures are between 50⁰F and 90⁰F.

What happens if I don’t seal my concrete?

If you do not use a sealer, substances such as oil, salt, fertilizer, and household or automotive chemicals can also discolor and damage the surface. Since concrete, is a porous material that readily absorbs liquids, the expansion of frozen penetrating liquids can destroy the surface of unsealed concrete in freeze-thaw climates.

Do sealers protect against oil stains?

Any oil spilled on a sealed concrete surface should be cleaned up as quickly as possible. Penetrating sealers, like siloxanes, remain porous. Due to this, oils may still penetrate the surface and stain. Additionally, acrylic membrane sealers fill surface pores and may be weakened by petroleum distillates. This will potentially lead to staining. For best performance, spills should be cleaned up immediately or a chemical resistant sealer, such as an epoxy or polyurethane, should be used.

Do sealers lock in stains?

Yes, any surface stains that are not cleaned prior to sealing will typically remain. These stains may fade over time due to exposure to sunlight; but evidence of the stain will remain.

How do I clean concrete prior to sealing?

All concrete surfaces should be cleaned prior to sealing. Dust, dirt, airborne contaminates, and minor surface staining can be removed with cleaners designed for concrete surfaces. Typically, these cleaners contain high pH chemicals that dissolve the very top surface of the concrete. You can apply these cleaners with a surface mop or simple spray equipment. Next, you must scrub the surface with a broom or brush to help dissolve the top surface. After the surface has been scrubbed, rinse it with water. This can be done using a low-pressure garden hose or a high-pressure power washer. If a high-pressure power washer is used, the concrete surface must dry for a minimum of 7-14 days before use. This is so any water in the concrete pores has time to come to the surface and evaporate. Additionally, the use of cleaners that utilize soaps or surfactants is discouraged as these cleaners are more difficult to remove from a porous surface. In any case, recommendations on cleaners from the sealer manufacture should be followed for best performance.

How do I apply a sealer?

Most sealers can be applied using simple tools such as paint rollers or low-pressure pump-up sprayers. Care should be taken when using “solvent resistant” equipment if solvent-based sealers are being applied. Generally, solvent-based sealers are best applied with sprayers (back rolling low spots or pooling areas) and water-based sealers are best applied by roller. The kind of the roller you use should be based on the concrete surface you are sealing. For reference, a ⅜” nap roller cover is a good choice to use across a variety of surfaces.  Manufacturer recommendations on application and coverage rates should always be followed for best performance.

Why did my sealer blister/bubble on the surface?

Typically, this happens when the sealer is applied to a hot or warm concrete surface. Concrete is porous and is filled with air. Thus, when the concrete surface gets warm or hot, air in the pores “blows” out of it. Simultaneously, the sealer surface is curing and forming a thin film. This causes the air blowing out of the concrete to bubble or blister. The best way to avoid this problem is apply the sealer in the morning prior to the concrete substrate heating up. This occurs more often when using solvent-based, membrane-forming sealers, but can also happen with water-based membrane forming sealers. 

How long before I can walk/drive on concrete after sealing?

Temperature and humidity drastically impact the amount of time it takes for sealed concrete to be drivable. Cooler temperatures and higher humidity will extend the time needed for proper curing. For example, on a summer day with a temperature of mid 70⁰F, concrete will take about 1-3 days to be ready for foot traffic and about 3-7 days to be ready for vehicular traffic.

Is sealer slippery?

This will depend on the product that is used. Reactive penetrating sealers typically do not impact the concrete surface profile or traction. If a membrane forming coating is applied, the concrete surface profile may be affected. The application of a membrane forming coating may require traction or anti-skid additives to maintain expected slip resistance.

Do sealers change the appearance of concrete or paver surfaces?

It depends on the sealer and application. Penetrating sealers do not typically alter the surface appearance of the concrete surface when applied to concrete surfaces that are 100% dry and free of moisture prior to application. If the surface contains moisture, the penetrating sealer will react with the moisture and may cause surface appearance or darkening effects. A good rule of thumb is to seal all concrete substrates with a penetrating sealer and be kept free of moisture for at least 7 days. Membrane sealers form a coating on the concrete surface and will alter the appearance of the surface. The membrane sealers are designed to reflect or refract common sunlight. This will alter the appearance from a matte to high gloss finish. This appearance is generally chosen by the user to enhance and intensify the surface appearance. 

Can you put new sealer over old sealer?

Yes and no. A general rule of thumb is that you should always use the same type of sealer as was previously applied. If a penetrating sealer was previously used, similar penetrating sealers or solvent-based membrane forming sealer can be used. Although, water-based membrane acrylic sealers will not penetrate the treated surface of previously treated penetrating sealer application. This will form a film on the surface and flake off.  Due to this, this application is not recommended. If a membrane forming water-based sealer was previously used, similar water-based materials can be used. Penetrating sealers are generally ineffective over surfaces previously treated with a membrane-forming sealer and solvent-based sealers are to be used with caution as they can soften or eat away the previously applied water-based sealer. For best performance, it is recommended that all previous coating is removed if the material or technology is not known. All sealers will wear over time.  Membrane forming sealers tend to wear more quickly and require sooner attention. Previously sealed surfaces should be cleaned with a mild soap and water.  This is to remove any surface contaminates that will inhibit proper adhesion of the new sealer.  There are several ways one can tell when it is time to reseal. If the surface has lost its sheen, the surface will soak up water rather than beading up on the surface. Additionally, the surface may start showing signs of wear. If any of these signs are recognized, it’s time to reseal. 

How can I store my sealer?

Due to various chemistries used in manufacturing sealers, it is best to store and maintain sealers in an environment between 50⁰F and 90⁰F.

How much do sealers cost?

Sealers are fairly cheap compared to the alternative of replacement of failing or damaged concrete.  Membrane sealers and chemically reactive penetrating sealers typically cost $0.15 to $0.25 per square foot and can be applied with easy to use equipment. Compare this to the full replacement cost of an average concrete slab ($9-$11 per square foot).

 

 

 

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